Tuesday, 7 June 2016

Benedict Cumberbatch Steals the Show in 'The Hollow Crown'

      In my last post about The Hollow Crown: Wars of the Roses series I focused on the first film of the trilogy Henry VI Part One to try to convince you to watch it even though it was without Mr. Cumberbatch, and I hope you have had (or will have) the pleasure of seeing it! Now I turn my attention the second film Henry VI Part Two which is a combination of Shakespeare's plays Henry VI Parts Two and Three.

     You know how it feels to worry that you probably have ridiculously high expectations of something? Well, I was experiencing this in the buildup to watching Benedict Cumberbatch as the infamous Richard – I mean majorly! Just the thought of seeing these plays made me jump up and down in excitement (yes, literally). 

     But what you want to know is: did it live up to my expectations? 

     Well, I'll tell you. At the risk of raising your expectations too high, my answer is a resounding "YES!"

     If you saw Benedict Cumberbatch in Hamlet then you know just how magnificent his skill with Shakespeare can be, and he is terrifyingly good as the Bard's most devious villain. (More on that below...) But he is not the only one on screen. Just as in Part One, the cast is packed with some of Britain's best, including Keeley Hawes and Andrew Scott! 

     The sets and costumes are once again a feast for the eye, and make a fitting visual for the magnificent words of the Bard.

(All photos are screen shots, courtesy of BBC iPlayer)

Hollow Crown Wars of the Roses, Henry VI Part Two
The Duke of York faces King Henry while he claims the throne surrounded by his "mess of sons."

The "glorious summer" court of Edward IV, when he first meets Elizabeth Woodville.

The court of King Louis, played by Andrew Scott.
     There are a few characters that you admire or pity, such as Anton Lesser as the Duke of Exeter and Tom Sturridge as King Henry, but with every other character you just love to hate them at some point or other, as revengeful death follows revengeful death in Shakespeare's account of the bloody Wars of the Roses.

     Now it is here that I must warn you that when I say bloody, I mean bloody  – very literally bloody! And if someone looks like they are going to get their throat cut, THEY ARE, and we get to see it. So consider yourself warned. I've been traumatized for life, but then I do abhor gory scenes in movies and therefore avoid them, so I probably shocked me more than it would most people. But if it does bother you, I want to give you a heads up. :)

     Now on to that great scene-stealer, Mr. Benedict Cumberbatch.

     For so I have dubbed him after seeing this performance! I may have been more forcibly struck with his breathtaking subtlety because I have never seen an actor portray Richard Gloucester. But I cannot imagine any actor being better. Even in the brief moments that he is on screen during this film he is able to give us a rounded, believable, hateful, twistedly charismatic character. He shows how Richard could become that "proud, subtle, sly, and bloody" man from what was before an apparently sheltered, if ill-natured, boy. He made me shudder and gasp at his villainy while at the same time I had to try not to laugh at his sly looks and snarky comments.

     In Richard III his mother sums up her son's life, and in this film Benedict brought that tempestuous personality to the screen with frightening accuracy

Thou cam’st on earth to make the earth my hell. 
A grievous burden was thy birth to me, 
Tetchy and wayward was thy infancy; 
Thy school-days frightful, desp’rate, wild, and furious, 
Thy prime of manhood daring, bold, and venturous;
     Cecily, Duchess of York, Richard III

     I've compiled some screenshots to chart his character arc, and to prove just how capable he is of stealing the show! How could Richard begin as a wide-eyed boy...

Benedict Cumberbatch as Richard in The Hollow Crown: Wars of the Roses

...and yet end up a man who gleefully proclaims himself "subtle, false, and treacherous" and would kill you as soon as look at you? I point you to the skill of Benedict Cumberbatch for the answer.

     He makes it clear in Richard's reactions to the battles, murders and ambition which mark the plot that these are shaping his character into the man he will become. Richard has a naturally quick, cunning and daring mind and personality, as well as some bitterness at being born with his "deformity." The struggle of growing up with that has certainly also given him a determined streak. It is this combination of the inner self and the bloody time in which he lived that Benedict Cumberbatch has chosen to guide his performance and explain Richard's transformation into a villain.

     Well, I was certainly convinced. ;)

     His father has fought to claim the English crown, but when he accepts the terms of King Henry to be Henry's heir, Richard appears most unsatisfied with his own father's sudden lack of ambition.

Benedict Cumberbatch as Richard in The Hollow Crown: Wars of the Roses

An oath is of no moment, being not took
Before a true and lawful magistrate
That hath authority over him that swears.
Henry had none, but did usurp the place;
Then, seeing 'twas he that made you to depose,
Your oath, my lord, is vain and frivolous.
Therefore, to arms...
...I cannot rest
Until the white rose that I wear be dy'd
Even in the lukewarm blood of Henry's heart!

Richard, enough; I will be King, or die.

      Benedict speaks these lines of Richard's with the care and yet uncontainable fire of a man gifted with logic and charisma who is using his gifts for the first time. He conveys the uncertainty and impetuosity of a young man that has never been listened to before. But at last Richard is getting experience in manipulating the circumstances to his will, although as yet his powers are being used for his father's gain, not his own.

     But his new experiences are not over yet. [SPOILERS] He is an eyewitness the the murder of his own brother, and it is clear how shocked he is.
An oath is of no moment, being not took
Before a true and lawful magistrate
That hath authority over him that swears.
Henry had none, but did usurp the place.
Then, seeing ’twas he that made you to depose,
Your oath, my lord, is vain and frivolous.
Therefore, to arms!
An oath is of no moment, being not took
Before a true and lawful magistrate
That hath authority over him that swears.
Henry had none, but did usurp the place.
Then, seeing ’twas he that made you to depose,
Your oath, my lord, is vain and frivolous.
Therefore, to arms!
An oath is of no moment, being not took
Before a true and lawful magistrate
That hath authority over him that swears.
Henry had none, but did usurp the place.
Then, seeing ’twas he that made you to depose,
Your oath, my lord, is vain and frivolous.
Therefore, to arms!

Benedict Cumberbatch as Richard in The Hollow Crown: Wars of the Roses

      This reaction is significant to my guess as to how Benedict is portraying this character because it tells us that Richard could feel shock at one time in his life, which leads to the conclusion that this experience must have had a profound effect on him and his next actions. It's like the first ripple in a pond. This scene is especially significant because in the play's text Richard isn't present during his brother's death (at least he isn't mentioned as being on stage at this point). But I think it was a legitimate addition in the light of giving us some of Richard's background.

     Not long after this he is given the news of his father's death, and by now his shock has been channeled into a desire for vengeance. His brothers weep at the news, but Richard's quick, angry mind has already moved on to action.

Benedict Cumberbatch as Richard in The Hollow Crown: Wars of the Roses

I cannot weep, for all my body's moisture
Scarce serves to quench my furnace-burning heart;
Nor can my tongue unload my heart's great burden,
For self-same wind that I should speak withal
Is kindling coals that fires all my breast,
And burns me up with flames that tears would quench.
To weep is to make less the depth of grief.
Tears then for babes; blows and revenge for me!
Richard, I bear thy name; I'll venge thy death,
Or die renowned by attempting it.

Benedict Cumberbatch as Richard in The Hollow Crown: Wars of the Roses

     And get revenge he does! He is terrifyingly controlled by it. It makes him fiercer, angrier, pitiless, and indifferent to all but what will accomplish his revenge on those who killed his brother and father. During his first battle while the man who has killed his family lays dying, crying for Richard to end his life quickly to put him out of his misery, Benedict makes me shudder. As he raises his dagger for the final blow his victim cries, "Mercy, Richard!" But instead of going in for the kill he pauses, and the wheels of his mind begin to turn.

Benedict Cumberbatch as Richard in The Hollow Crown: Wars of the Roses

The cries for mercy grow louder but Richard only smiles, stands up and walks away. You can just see him thinking, "Why kill him quickly when I could let him die a slow, agonizing death? Now he knows what happens when a man messes with my family." What makes it so terrifying is how calculated his malice is! It's not wild, senseless, violent hatred. He is able to think about how to inflict the greatest amount of pain, even in the heat of combat. He recognizes that war offers the ideal conditions for him to display his mental skills of cunning and quick angry action, which I think is a prominent reason why he seems drawn to take part in war and conflict.

Benedict Cumberbatch as Richard in The Hollow Crown: Wars of the Roses

(I just want to take a moment to point out the apparent correlation between the progress of his hair and the progress of his villainy. It seems to get messier and shorter as he gets more calculating. I'm not sure why, but it works.)

     After the above battle is won Edward is crowned King, George dubbed Duke of Clarence and Richard Duke of Goucester, and we jump ahead ten years. Now who knows what shenanigans Richard has been up to during that decade, but whatever they were, we can be sure that he has grown more cunning and bitter in his violence, more dexterous in using it, and therefore more contemptuous of everyone around him, particularly his brothers, who have on the contrary grown more comfortable and indolent. They seem to have lost their zeal for the power and honor of the House of York, and instead bicker over Edward's choice of wife while they caper about in a game of tennis.

     But Richard isn't idle. He not only sees all, but puts it together and uses it to his advantage. Instead of wasting his time with fretting over difficulties he bides his time and finds a way to amuse himself by hatching the most ambitious plan in his power: to be the king. The fact is that he's probably bored with no wars to fight or revenge to exact – he tells us as much in Richard III – so he begins weaving a web that he will use to catch the crown.

Benedict Cumberbatch as Richard in The Hollow Crown: Wars of the Roses

     I would be worried if he was looking at me like this...

     ... Or like this. His mind is definitely plotting something.
     
Benedict Cumberbatch as Richard in The Hollow Crown: Wars of the Roses

     Benedict does the plotting expression so brilliantly! He's got the whole actor playing a character who's also playing a character down to a science. Richard has learned the subtle art of presenting himself as whatever part will put him in the most advantageous position, which at this point in the story is the loyal brother to the king – as opposed to their other brother who joins the Lancastrian forces out of spite for his brother not giving him the wife he wanted.

     So his brother Clarence storms off while Richard pledges undying loyalty to Edward. And he lays it on thick in the lead up to the next battle, particularly when they visit Warwick in the enemy camp. Richard's personality is increasingly taking center stage and seizing control of the plot, and we are given more opportunities to watch his mind work – little smiles, looks, movements – that will reach their pinnacle in Richard III, when his name and personality take over the entire play.

Benedict Cumberbatch as Richard in The Hollow Crown: Wars of the Roses

Benedict Cumberbatch as Richard in The Hollow Crown: Wars of the Roses

Benedict Cumberbatch as Richard in The Hollow Crown: Wars of the Roses

     What a face! Not only is he cunning, but he has a positively impish enjoyment in manipulating everyone.

Benedict Cumberbatch as Richard in The Hollow Crown: Wars of the Roses


     There he is exacting revenge on one of his many enemies...

 Benedict Cumberbatch as Richard in The Hollow Crown: Wars of the Roses 

     He hasn't quite gotten his temper under the control of his cunning: he's about to murder someone.

     Well, more than one someone. Only this time it is part of a very elaborate and long-term plan, indeed. He is now officially scheming to gain the English crown by getting rid of every other contender that stands between it and him. 

     Here in the last scene Richard stands in all of his glory, speaking his infamous monologues directly to the audience – which gives his recital of those crafty, angry, murderous schemes a more terrifying effect than I could ever have imagined feeling while I watched Benedict Cumberbatch!

     I knew he could play a villain well, but in those moments he was the villain! A villainous villain oozing villainy. I can't say it enough. I'm still recovering from the terror.

     The first part of this speech is taken from earlier in the play (Act 3, Scene 2), but I think it works here. Doing so has Richard putting his plot into action later on – although it doesn't exclude the possibility that he began the plot at that earlier time (when Edward meets Elizabeth) – which works with the momentum of the film because it has been moving Richard more and more to the center of the action, and preparing us for when he takes the leading part in Richard III

     It probably shouldn't, but this part of the movie delights me. Of course I heartily condemn Richard's ambition and cold calculation of an untold number of murders. But as a performance it is enthralling! Benedict moves from passion to resignation to glee to pain to anger to confusion to rage and everything in between in this marvelous ten minutes.

     Now I'll let Shakespeare and Benedict do the rest. You've had enough of my commentary by now. ;)

Benedict Cumberbatch as Richard in The Hollow Crown: Wars of the Roses

Why then I do but dream on sovereignty, 
Like one that stands upon a promontory 
And spies a far-off shore where he would tread,
Wishing his foot were equal with his eye, 
And chides the sea that sunders him from thence, 
Saying, he’ll lade it dry to have his way: 
So do I wish the crown, being so far off, 
And so I chide the means that keeps me from it, 
And so, I say, I’ll cut the causes off, 
Flattering me with impossibilities.
Why, then, I do but dream on sovereignty
Like one that stands upon a promontory
And spies a far-off shore


Benedict Cumberbatch as Richard in The Hollow Crown: Wars of the Roses

Why, love forswore me in my mother’s womb; 
And for I should not deal in her soft laws, 
She did corrupt frail nature with some bribe, 
To shrink mine arm up like a wither’d shrub, 
To make an envious mountain on my back, 
Where sits deformity to mock my body;

Then since this earth affords no joy to me 
But to command, to check, to o’erbear such 
As are of better person than myself, 
I’ll make my heaven to dream upon the crown, 
And whiles I live, t’ account this world but hell

Benedict Cumberbatch as Richard in The Hollow Crown: Wars of the Roses

And from that torment I will free myself, 
Or hew my way out with a bloody axe. 
Why, I can smile, and murder whiles I smile,
And cry “Content” to that which grieves my heart,
 And wet my cheeks with artificial tears, 
And frame my face to all occasions. 
I’ll drown more sailors than the mermaid shall, 
I’ll slay more gazers than the basilisk, 
I’ll play the orator as well as Nestor, 
Deceive more slily than Ulysses could, 
And like a Sinon, take another Troy. 
I can add colors to the chameleon, 
Change shapes with Proteus for advantages, 
And set the murderous Machevil to school.

Can I do this, and cannot get a crown?
Tut, were it farther off, I’ll pluck it down.

     What a range of emotions! I have to say, Benedict is the perfect choice for Richard because they can both frame their faces to all occasions (although for different purposes, of course). They are both consummate actors! Perhaps Benedict inherited it from his sixteen-generations-removed third cousin (he and Richard are thus related, if you haven't heard by now).

     Now we are officially at the Tower of London in the dungeon of –– I won't give it away, on the off chance that you don't know the story. :) And Richard's "bloody axe" is ready to swing. After he smiles sweetly at his victim.

Benedict Cumberbatch as Richard in The Hollow Crown: Wars of the Roses

But the anger is never far below the surface, and after a few jabs, it erupts...

Thy mother felt more than a mother’s pain, 
And yet brought forth less than a mother’s hope, 
To wit, an indigested and deformed lump, 
Not like the fruit of such a goodly tree. 
Teeth hadst thou in thy head when thou wast born, 
To signify thou cam’st to bite the world;

Benedict Cumberbatch as Richard in The Hollow Crown: Wars of the Roses

     In his defense, these shots would get anyone's hackles up, but, unfortunately for the speaker, Richard doesn't react like everyone else. Enter the axe.

Benedict Cumberbatch as Richard in The Hollow Crown: Wars of the Roses

I have no brother, I am like no brother; 
And this word “love,” which greybeards call divine, 
Be resident in men like one another, 
And not in me: I am myself alone.

     From now on it's Richard against the world! If you are heir to the crown, beware. If Richard doesn't like you, beware. He's got his axe out and it's swinging! As you can see from this face in the last shot of the film...

Benedict Cumberbatch as Richard in The Hollow Crown: Wars of the Roses

     I'm sure Benedict Cumberbatch isn't the first actor to be absolutely brilliant as Shakespeare's ultimate villain, and he won't be the last. But if there is one thing I want this post to prove, it is that his performance deserves to be ranked with the best for it's authenticity, subtlety and sheer charisma.

Long live King Richard, England's royal king!


Next time we'll open the chocolate box that is Richard III. 'Til then, farewell, and thanks for reading!


© 2016 Anna Morton


Friday, 27 May 2016

Why you should absolutely watch 'The Hollow Crown: Wars of the Roses'


All photos courtesy of @HollowCrownFans
     Why watch The Hollow Crown: Wars of Roses series? Just the titles Henry VI Parts One and Two and Richard III all sound a bit dusty, really: 400-year-old plays written in language complicated enough to match, and all about the most muddled part of English royal history. The red rose, the white rose, four different kings, along with all of their brothers, wives, fathers, children, uncles, cousins and enemies – many of them with the same names. In fact, you need a family tree for reference just to have an idea of what's going on!

     But I want to tell you why it is worth the effort! Actually, the movies minimize the effort most conveniently because you can go by their faces instead of their names. Knowing their names almost doesn't matter because the meat of the production is in the performances of the actors – they're so amazing that you can be confused about who's who and still enjoy the movies.

     The first and greatest reason to watch the series is for that very reason: the actors.

     For many of you, I only need to speak the words "Benedict Cumberbatch" and you'll be convinced. (I would be!) But the British film industry if chocked full of the best actors – particularly Shakespearean actors – in history, and The Hollow Crown has assembled an all-star team of the very best.

Hugh Bonneville in 'The Hollow Crown'
     Mr. Cumberbatch isn't in Henry VI Part One, so in my eyes the star performer in the first film of this series is Hugh Bonneville as the Lord Protector, Duke of Gloucester. We all love him as Robert, Earl of Grantham in Downton Abbey, and in this Shakespearean role he brings all those qualities of benevolent authority and the wise patriarch of a family that made him the solid and lovable Lord Grantham. But he possesses even more than a pleasant personality as King Henry's uncle; the caliber of his acting is some of the highest out there.

      If the natural style of Shakespearean acting is to your taste, he is superb! The lines just seem to flow out of him "at the speed of thought" (as Tom Hiddleston advocates). When he appears in a scene it suddenly gains a certain something – he adds gravitas, dignity and pure presence with his poignant looks and majestic voice.

     Another such treasure is Anton Lesser, and when he, Hugh Bonneville and Sam West are all in a scene together, it is pure alchemy. I think I might have giggled with delight to see that.

Anton Lesser as the Earl of Exeter in 'The Hollow Crown'
Anton Lesser as the Duke of Exeter in 'The Hollow Crown'
     If you have only ever read the plays before, as I had, you probably have experienced at least a little impatience with the peace-loving King Henry VI, as I most definitely had. He seems a bit of, to quote Richard III, "a milksop." But to my pleasant surprise I found that I genuinely pitied him, and I lay that newfound sympathy down to the talent of Tom Sturridge in portraying him.

Tom Sturridge as Henry VI and Sophie Okonedo as Queen Margaret
Tom Sturridge as Henry VI and Sophie Okonedo as Queen Margaret
     The young king is surrounded by a power-hungry, bickering, violent mob at court, including his queen, the "she-wolf" Margaret of Anjou, played by a spirited Sophie Okonedo. Once we witness the squabbles and intrigues of the others, Henry's pleas for peace and reconciliation appear totally reasonable.

Queen Margaret and the Lancastrian forces
Queen Margaret and the Lancastrian forces
     Reason number two: Henry VI Part One offers an explanation for how the Wars of the Roses began, and why England was the scene of bloody chaos for the following 40 years. Henry VI Part Two and Richard III gain importance from this first play in the tetralogy. They become more than entertainment, more than the chance to see (very) bloody battles and dramatic speeches, and become vivid pictures of what results when the poison of ambition spreads through a government. What begins as a few guys picking red and white roses in a garden ends in the near destruction of two generations.

     This is powerful stuff.

     My last reason I present as an inducement to watch this series is perhaps the most frivolous – and yet it is the most inescapable – which is the mis-en-scene: the costumes and sets. SO MAGNIFICENT! Velvets, wools, damasks, armor, enormous sleeves, gold, pearls, furs and more make this a visual feast to the eye. It is a medieval court in all of its splendor. They are all in the perfect settings, too, since they were filmed in actual castles and cathedrals from the period. (Just another reason why England is my favorite country!)

Sally Hawkins as the wife of the Duke of Gloucester and Sophie Okonedo as Queen Margaret
Sally Hawkins as the wife of the Duke of Gloucester and Sophie Okonedo as Queen Margaret
Now that all of my attempts at eloquence are at an end, I will simply say: I loved them! The series was amazing, and if you like Shakespeare, history, costume dramas, British actors, or all of the above, then I would definitely recommend you see them, too!

P.S. They'll be available from both Amazon.com and Amazon UK on June 21!


Your Shakepearean historical drama and costume fanatic signing off til next time....


Monday, 28 March 2016

The Real Northanger Abbey

A real ruined Abbey! We visited Rivaulx Abbey in north Yorkshire.
A real ruined Abbey! We visited Rivaulx Abbey in north Yorkshire.

    As I was flipping through my travel journal to make a post about this day to my dismay I could not find it anywhere. So I shall be making one more post from memory. :)

England 2015 Travel Journal
Monday, March 30

     We began our day with another jaunt into York. Instead of using the York Outlets Park'n'Ride we found a city parking lot just outside one of the city's medieval gates. The parking rates were reasonable, somewhere between £2-4 for a couple of hours, and we could walk to the attraction that we came to see.

     In the rooms of this particular city gate was an exhibit about the infamous Richard III and the artifacts found on the Towton battlefield (mostly some fiendish looking weapons). It gives you an interesting look at what it would have been like for a soldier during the 1460s-80s, such as the camps, the armor, the battles, the weapons and such (as well as the rather horrible fighting that went on). There was also an informative short video about the Battle of Towton.

Richard III
Did Richard wear this dashing suit of armor?

     This isn't Richard's actual armor, but it is a good example of what he might have worn. It was an unusual set of stairs to climb up from the street to the exhibit, and possibly the narrowest, lowest-ceiling-ed staircase I've ever climbed!

     We finished our sojourn in York early enough to zip up to North Yorkshire and to one of the sights we'd decided to see based the wonderful plethora of brochures and magazines provided in our AirBNB cottage. It was the amazing Rievaulx Abbey. We almost went to the more famous Whitby Abbey, and I wish we could have, since it is situated in grandeur on the Yorkshire coast. But it was just too far to visit that day by car.

     Even though we could only make it to one site that afternoon it still felt as if we got to see so much because on any drive through England there will be beautiful scenery and many historic landmarks along the road. For instance, we drove right past Castle Howard – an enormous estate that has been the seat of some powerful people in the past. I think we might have actually driven through the estate because we passed a couple of gates like this:

Entering the grounds of Castle Howard.
Entering the grounds of Castle Howard.

     You can actually catch a glimpse of the Castle at one point!

The Village of Helmsley
The Village of Helmsley
     The village nearest to the Abbey is a lovely looking place called Helmsley, with some shops and cafes that looked most inviting (unfortunately we got there just as they were all closing at 5:00). We had to hurry on to our destination, and what scenery we had along the way! It was the perfect prelude to the magnificence of the Abbey. The country was filled with bare trees, the wind was chill and cold, and the sky was covered in sliver clouds, but the fields were a lush green, painting a strikingly epic backdrop for those admirable ruins.

Rievaulx Abbey in all of it's ruined glory!
Rievaulx Abbey in all of it's ruined glory!
    It's a National Heritage site, so it costs about £8 each to walk around the Abbey, but, boy, is it worth the cost. What an imposing, splendid, spectacular, awe-inspiring sight! I could almost become a Gothic romance fan myself, it was such an amazing atmosphere. It made me more sympathetic to Jane Austen's Catherine Morland in Northanger Abbey. But I can tell you that I would not wish to be there at night... It was lonely enough at a light 5:00 when you are the only two people wandering around. (The site closes at 6:00, by the way.)

Rievaulx Abbey
One of the crumbling rooms of the Abbey
     There were helpful plaques placed in nearly every room (or what would have been a room when the Abbey was whole). The picture below is of the dining area, I believe. Can you imagine eating dinner in a space like this? All I can think about is how cold I would be during breakfast... The breakfast would be cold, too, I suppose. ;)

Rievaulx Abbey
The stony dining hall of the Abbey

Rievaulx Abbey

     Here we are in the main hall. It was haunting to stand in that space and imagine what it must have looked like in all of its glory. It just amazes me how people so long ago could have constructed such intricate and enormous structures, and yet here they still stand, looking more beautiful than any modern building I have ever seen. The motives were often questionable – power, display, intimidation, self-righteousness – but even that can tell us more about the people of the past and bring them closer to us, which also helps us to understand ourselves, since humankind never really changes.

     Okay, now I am done rhapsodizing or philosophizing or monolog-izing.... (and making up words)! ;)


Keeping warm at Rievaulx Abbey
Keeping warm...
    As you can see, maximum coverage was essential to keeping tolerably warm and comfortable in that frigid breeze, but – it was Yorkshire.

Rievaulx Abbey
Would Henry Tilney call this a picturesque view?
     It was so atmospheric! I began to actually sympathize with Catherine Morland. I tend to think of her as a little juvenile for letting her imagination run away with her, but really, with such a scene it would take a singularly level-headed person to resist letting their imagination at least begin walking away with them.

     One minute my mind was full of monks walking cold halls trying to live a life of self-denial in this center of the Roman church in this remote corner of the north, and the next I could see soldiers of Henry VIII burning and sacking the Abbey for its riches in this far corner of the kingdom. Then I would summon up some romantic poets coming to the ruins to sit and contemplate the mossy stones and vaulted arches for inspiration, or Victorian Londoners up for a northern sketching holiday making their way as best they can in full skirts over the broken stairs and walls for the perfect picturesque view.

Rievaulx Abbey
Both of us posing under that great arch would make for a dramatic painting, I think.

Reivaulx Abbey
Who needs to read Mrs. Radcliffe when you've got the real thing! ;)
      This place has stood since the 11 and 1200s – for 900 years – and seen so much history. Those stones must have thousands of stories to tell, and walking among them, touching them with my hands, and imagining what they may have seen feels like a chance to honor the memories of each person and their real stories.



©2016 Anna Morton

Tuesday, 8 March 2016

On Wuthering Heights

| The moors of the Brontës. |
| The moors of the Brontës. |

England Trip 2015 Travel Journal
Sunday, March 29 – Part Two

We decided to head to Haworth and Brontë country so we wouldn't get to the museum too late, and visit the North & South filming location afterward. I have never seen a country or surroundings whose mood and feel is so reflected in the stories of any writer! I have never read Wuthering Heights, but I have read Jane Eyre and I am familiar with the passion and gothic-like moods of these novels, and the wild hills covered in dark heather, the bare black trees, the clouds blowing dramatically overhead and the blasting wind almost blowing you down – moaning and whistling through the trees and over the hills – make it unmistakable that this landscape was an influence on the Brontë sisters.
They couldn't escape writing the way they did!

The Village of Haworth.
The Village of Haworth.

Looking across the moor to the Brontë parsonage.
Looking across the moor to the Brontë parsonage.

Walking around the Brontë Parsonage museum made me sad, since so many of the family died young, and died in those very rooms. The struggle and near-darkness in the passions of the stories added to my feeling of sadness. It is quite a contrast from Chawton Cottage.

The sign for the Brontë parsonage museum

Looking over the graveyard to the parsonage.
Looking over the graveyard to the parsonage.

 Brontë parsonage.

My sneaky picture of the room where the Brontë sisters used to stay up late at night and write together.
My sneaky picture of the room where the Brontë sisters used to write together.
The drawing room is where Anne, Emily and Charlotte would stay up late and write together. Their writing desks, one of Charlotte's dresses and her wedding bonnet are spread out for us to see in different rooms. It was unreal to see those! She was quite little, too.

We then went for a walk to try to find a nearby moor, but after being pelted with some hail and the moor being nowhere in sight we went back to attempt another path through the cemetery. This was more successful in finding something at least moor-like and a place with a spectacular view.


Facing the hail, with the parsonage behind us.
Facing the hail, with the parsonage behind us.

The path up to the hills.
The path up to the hills.

The moors!
The moors!
We were very cold and a bit damp, but it was worth it! The sun was breaking through the clouds and the wind – It was blowing so hard that it felt like someone had a sheet wrapped around me and was pulling me backward! Not to mention that my hand would go numb if I took my glove off for a few seconds. Nevertheless we enjoyed ourselves immensely! As well as getting some fabulous pictures.

The moors!

The moors!

The moors!

The moors!


We walked through the heather, feeling very much like Jane Eyre as she ran away from Thornfield. While we trekked the path up to the heather the wind literally rushing over our heads made me either want to cower in fear or rush on to meet it, defying its worst! So I ran up the last stretch. :)

The famous moor heather.
The famous moor heather.

The famous moor heather.

The famous moor heather.

I said it was windy... :)
I said it was windy... :)
We still had daylight left, so we headed to Keighley. You know how you have a sort of idea in your head of what a film location actually looks like? Well, that idea is always wrong – at least in my experience – which usually makes them hard to find.

But not in this case. Those green mill doors were unmistakable!

The gates of Dalton Mill, used as Malborough Mills in BBC's North & South
The gates of Dalton Mill, used as Malborough Mills in BBC's North & South

I literally gasped. And the place was completely deserted, which was perfect for sneaking some pictures.

The gates of Dalton Mill, used as Malborough Mills in BBC's North & South
"Look back. Look back at me."


The gates of Dalton Mill, used as Malborough Mills in BBC's North & South
It's Malborough Mills!! Alas, there was no Mr. Thornton...
It's a business complex now, with different companies in various building, but it is still very much a mill. It was technically once Dalton Mill, but to me it was Malbrough Mills. Mrs. Thornton's window, Mr. Thornton's steps, Margaret's visits – every place was there. I was actually brave enough to climb the steps to pose – but there was no one driving off to whom I could whisper "look back at me..." ;)

Talk about being transported! All we were missing was Richard Armitage. I had to stand in the spot where Mr. Thornton says one of my favorite lines to Margaret: "You're ill?" His concern for Margaret at that moment takes my breath away every time.

The gates of Dalton Mill, used as Malborough Mills in BBC's North & South
"I've not become so fine as to forget the source of my son's power and wealth. The Mill is everything." - Mrs. Thornton

Oddly, one of the most exciting parts of it all was after we had driven our car past the mill to leave and I saw a metal gate coming down, closing the complex! We had just made it. (That was at 7:00. We parked just around the corner in the neighborhood, by the way.)

The gates of Dalton Mill, used as Malborough Mills in BBC's North & South


Dinner and a fabulous Hob Nob ice cream sundae at the Carvery wound up the day in Keighley. (Hob Nobs are a sort of oat cookie with chocolate coating one side.) Carveries are wondrous places where you can get in line and ask for delicious meats (turkey, roast beef, ham), vegetables (potatoes, root veggies, Brussels sprouts), Yorkshire pudding and gravy to be piled onto your plate. It is one of the finest aspects of British cuisine.

Hob Nobs and ice cream!
Hob Nobs and ice cream!
It was just an unforgettable day! And one accompanied by the soundtracks of North & South and Jane Eyre. :)


© 2016 Anna Morton

Thursday, 3 March 2016

"Matlock, Dovedale and the Peak": Jane Austen's Derbyshire

 
Pride and Prejudice quote
"She had never seen a place for which nature had done more, or where natural beauty had been so little counteracted by an awkward taste."
Pride and Prejudice

     Jane Austen must have been familiar with the sights of Derbyshire – "The Peaks" or the Peak District, as it is also called – when she wrote Pride and Prejudice, or Elizabeth Bennet would not have had anything to talk about during the awkward silences while she and Mr. Darcy tried having a conversation at Pemberley.

     Next time I go to England I would love to really explore this place, home to so many unforgettable scenes in the book and movie versions of Pride and Prejudice. It also abounds in majestic scenery made up of mountains, rocks and lush green hills that can be seen on any number of walks and hikes (for the more adventurous). From her letters and novels we know Jane Austen loved the country, and, in choosing Derbyshire to be the setting for an estate that represented what an elegant and tasteful home should be, she seemed to think rather highly of this particular county.

"Wildness and artifice, and all in the one perfect county."
      So where are these places, exactly? Well, Derbyshire county itself is about 150 miles north of London, just over halfway between London and the Scottish border. The county is 2,625 kilometers in size, and it's larger towns include Derby, Matlock, and Buxton.

Dovedale, one of the sights that Lizzy and the Gardiners visited, is renowned for its beauty and particularly abounds in walks (which would explain why Lizzy enjoys it so much).
Here is a website with more information: www.visitpeakdistrict.com

Thorpe Cloud at Dovedale
Thorpe Cloud at Dovedale
Source: Wikipedia, Rob Bendall

I don't know what "the peak" is that Jane is referring to, but there are other amazing rock formations that one sees in both movies.

There are the "Ramshaw Rocks" found in "The Roaches" which are featured in the 1995 BBC version. (www.peakdistrictinformation.com)

Elizabeth Bennet in Derbyshire, BBC 1995
"Elizabeth, be careful! How could I face your father if you took a fall?"
And of course there is the unforgettable shot of Elizabeth standing on "Stanage Edge" in the 2005 Joe Wright adaptation. That scene with its majestic, swelling music gets me every time! (stanageedge.co.uk)

Elizabeth Bennet in Derbyshire, BBC 1995
I just want to stand there and pretend to be Lizzy!

Of course, there are those iconic houses, which both are very appropriately located in or near Derbyshire.

There is Lyme Park, used in BBC's 1995 adaptation, located in Disley, not too far from Manchester. It's accessible by train, and there is a lovely shuttle that drives visitors from the entrance to the Park up to the house. There is also a car park for those lucky enough to be driving one around the country.

The house is open from 11:00 - 5:00 every day except Wednesdays and Thursdays (but including Thursdays from July 25 - September 4 ); the Gardens are open every day. The standard price to see both is £9.90.

Check out nationaltrust.org.uk/lyme for more information.

The beautiful grounds of Pemberley.
The beautiful grounds of Pemberley.
Chatsworth House is now one of the most famous houses in Britain, thanks to 'Pride and Prejudice' films! Of course, it was famous before that, but some of us had never noticed it until it showed up in a Jane Austen movie. It has been said that this house was actually the inspiration for Pemberley, and it may in part have been. But I've also heard that it is just a bit too grand even for Mr. Darcy. Either way, Jane certainly knew of it, possibly visited it herself, and one will hardly see a more happily situated house anywhere.

The House and gardens are open from March 19 - November 4 this year from 11:00 - 5:00 (10:30 from May 28 - September 4), and admission to both is £20.

For more prices and times see: www.chatsworth.org

The iconic Chatsworth.
The iconic Chatsworth.

I've created a Google map of all these places, just to give an idea of where they are in location to each other and the county.

A Derbyshire map, courtesy of Google.
One day I hope we shall all be so fortunate as to be able to see the "beautiful grounds at Pemberley"!
(Which ever one it happens to be...)


© 2016 Anna Morton