Southampton: Jane Austen's Forgotten Home

| Jane Austen danced here! |

England 2015 Trip Journal
Monday, April 13

     We decided to enjoy some of Alresford before our trip was over, and we had more gorgeous weather, so we took a stroll down Broad Street and West Street. There was a charity shop literally a few houses down from our flat, and although it was rather smaller than the average charity shop I managed to find quite a treasure: a mug with 'Her Ladyship' on it! Having been given my title last year, it seemed like the perfect souvenir to buy myself. I'm rather excited to show it to the friends who so kindly bestowed my title on me. :) And it was only £2.50! For a second breakfast we popped into Heidi's Swiss Patisserie for tea and pastry – well, I got a jelly doughnut, to be absolutely precise. It was a cozy, clean place that seemed to be a favorite with the locals for sandwiches and coffee.

Looking down West Street in Alresford.

     We visited Southampton at last! We drove to Netley Abbey first, and parked in the Abbey Hall parking lot at the corner of Grange Rd. and Victoria Rd. right next to the recreation field (and it's free!). It was only a five minute walk from there up to the Abbey on Victoria Rd. There is a parking lot on the Abbey grounds which is also free, but it's quite small.

     It was truly exciting to know that we were actually standing where Jane Austen and her nephews had stood 108 years ago. When her 11- and 8-year old nephews Edward and George, her brother Edward's sons, came to stay with Jane and her mother in Southampton after their mother died, Jane was determined to look after them and cheer them if she could, so she devised a visit to the nearby Netley Abbey. For a day out from Southampton they crossed the River Itchen in the Itchen ferry, and then rowed themselves down the river to the Abbey.

     It is a ruin now and it was a ruin then. It's also still free to visit! It remains quite a perfect ruin, with ivy growing up the walls and great open church windows with sunlight streaming through. This is both a medieval and a Tudor ruin because Henry VIII gave it to a nobleman after dissolving the monasteries in 1536. He altered the grey stone of the Abbey with lots of the iconic Tudor red brick, some of which still remains.

The romantic arches of Netley Abbey – just the setting for a Gothic romance...

A large section of the Tudor brick.

  

     In the space that was once the chapel there are some carvings on the base of what was once a pillar commemorating King Henry III! (He was patron of the monastery during his reign from 1216-72.) There were hundreds of carvings all over every wall – mostly graffiti – but even graffiti gains importance after two hundred years (the "1811" I noticed scratched into the Chapter House was particularly exciting to me).

Graffiti is no new thing...

The iconic gothic chapel ruins.

  

  

A crown for King Henry III carved into the pillar base.

The only bit of Netley with a roof: the Chapter House.

     The Abbey is set in a beautiful spot, and I love to imagine Jane Austen and her nephews sitting under the great tree, walking about on the glowing green grass, and perhaps playing a game of hide and seek among the ruins. During our visit I observed that school must still be out because there was a group of boys being boys, running about and climbing up the Abbey – just like young Edward and George might have done. :)

There is even ivy growing in a pointed gothic window... Could there be a more perfect ruin?

 

     For lunch we sat in the Cricket field adjacent to where we'd parked that looks out over Southampton Water. We greatly enjoyed our tuna sandwiches as we gazed over the sparkling sea, imagining Jane, Edward and George rowing along the shore to the Abbey.

 

 

     Only a 12-minute drive up the road from Netley Abbey is Southampton, where Jane Austen lived for nearly three years of her life, from 1806 to 1809. She didn't do any novel writing here, that we know of – which could explain why people don't connect her with Southampton – but we do know that she was happy. She had escaped the confinement of Bath city life, and moved into a comfortable house with her mother, sister, friend and brother's family located right on the ocean with it's own garden.

     The city center of Southampton is unusual, dotted everywhere with fragments of the old city walls, and the buildings almost run into the water – they practically did back in Jane's time when the water used to come all the way up to the city wall. It would have been a pleasant place for the Austen ladies, being so near the freedom of the sea after being land-locked in Bath for six years.

 

     We found the place where the Austens lived in Castle Square, and although the original building has been demolished, there is now a pub on the site titled The Juniper Berry. There is just enough room behind it for the garden Jane talks of with such excitement in her letters. From among their raspberries and "lauburnam gold" they could have looked out over the ocean because the garden backed up right to the wall.

The Juniper Berry pub, once home to the Austen ladies. 

Behind the Juniper Berry, where the Austens kept a garden. 

     

     We parked in the lot on Castle Way between Albion Place and the Westquay Shopping Centre. To find the Austens' old home, just follow Albion Place, which turns into Forest View and runs right into The Juniper Berry. It is only about two blocks from The Dolphin Hotel where Jane used to attend assemblies. Just take Castle Lane to Castle Way, which leads straight to The Dolphin on High Street. It's all very conveniently close together!

     We popped into The Dolphin simply to check out their tourist info resources – or so I thought... It turned out to be much more exciting: an undercover stealth mission! Mom quietly called me to follow her up some back stairs, which was completely bewildering until I saw the sign directing us to the Jane Austen Suite. Then I guessed what she was up to. We went through a few doors, glancing around to make sure we remained unseen, and found a largish meeting room set up for dinner and covered with sky blue striped wallpaper, which Mom had somehow discovered was part of the room Jane would have danced in! We grabbed a few photos and videos before making our way back as stealthily as we had come. We were quite pleased with ourselves, and giggled with glee as we walked away down the street.

Before our covert mission into The Dolphin Hotel...

We found it! The room where Jane Austen danced in Southampton. 

     We then walked through the old town, following the Castle Square road near the Juniper Berry (which changes into Bugle St.) past the Tudor House and Garden, and down to the old wall (built in the 1200s), where we found the West Gate, the place where the troops in King Henry V's army had passed to disembark for Agincourt, as well as the spot where the Pilgrims had set sail for America. 

     I had to get Mom's picture with the monument marking the spot to go with her picture taken at Plymouth, Massachusetts, where the Pilgrims first landed. The wall led us at last to the waterfront, so we walked along for a bit like Jane Austen and her family had done before they set out on a little sailing expedition. Jane also would have taken this route all the way to the Itchen Ferry that she and her nephews took to reach Netley Abbey.

The monument to the Pilgrims in Southampton.

The West Gate: Henry V's troops walked past this stone...

A bit of info about Jane Austen on the Southampton walls.

     For dinner we settled on The Standing Order next door to The Dolphin Hotel. It is a Wetherspoon pub, which means that the prices will be quite decent, and that we may encounter a 2-for-1 meal deal like we did in Stratford and Selby. What made this pub quite perfect was the discovery of Jane Austen's portrait hung over a table. So you can guess where we sat.

Sitting under Southampton's most famous unknown resident.

     Perhaps the most memorable thing about sitting under Jane's portrait is the fact that our server didn't know that it was a portrait of Jane Austen. Mom told her we were sitting at the table next to Jane Austen's picture, and apparently she did not recognize the location of which Mom was speaking... It just goes to show you that even the people who live here have forgotten its Jane Austen connection.

     Now, it pains me ever to speak ill of English food, as it already has an unjustly negative reputation, but this is a story too good to keep to ourselves. It is not even a critique of English food, really, as it involves a tostada. You see, we had gotten a little homesick for Mexican food, which can be found in its gloriously authentic form on nearly every block in California, so we decided to diverge from our beloved British dishes on the menu to indulge in a taste of home. Well, it was not too different from what we know, except for the bar-b-que sauce. That was rather an unusual twist.

     Then it was time to return home to our lovely flat for some tea!



© Anna Morton 2017

A Day at the Hampshire Seaside!

| It's hard to stop smiling at West Wittering Beach! |

England 2015 Trip Journal
Sunday, April 12

     We're ending our day in Chichester after West Wittering Beach and Bethel Leigh Church. All the shops shut early, so we just walked around to enjoy the scenery and got dessert at Marks & Spencer to have with our coffee at Caffe Nero. Going to Costa or Caffe Nero is by far one of our favorite pastimes over here, thanks to the coffee that is undoubtedly superior than what we're used to in our coffee shops at home and the quantity of delicious British treats available in the shops that we can buy for next to nothing. Coffee shops also present the perfect opportunity to do some necessary web surfing on their free wifi.

     Before settling down for our favorite meal, we had to saunter over to the chief sight in Chichester: the Cathedral that has been around since 1108, with its soaring 277-ft. spire. We took the back way, and opposite from the path leading to the Cathedral itself we passed The Deanery, a handsome Georgian-looking building, presumably built for the dean of the parish and the Cathedral back in the 1700s (one of my favorite centuries). I wouldn't mind living in a house like that.

The back way to Chichester Cathedral.
(Back ways are fun – you never know what you might see!)

Et vóila! The Deanery.

     We had a glorious day of sun and blue sky! Meeting with old friends and new Christian brothers and sisters in church this morning also had a glory all its own, and they looked totally surprised to see us after we sneaked in during a song. :)

      Being a Sunday, the West Wittering Beach really had an air of a holiday about it with so many kids (and adults) eating ice cream in the clear spring sunshine under the brightest of blue skies. It would have even been warm if the wind had ever stopped blowing... We tried sitting on the beach, but what with the sand blowing into every crevice and your hair obstructing your view as it blew across your face, we only lasted about ten minutes.

     We decided on a walk down to the water so we could dip our toes in the Atlantic. Who would have thought that an April day by the ocean in England could be as cheerful as the first day of summer vacation! We both rolled up our trousers, wriggled our toes in the sand, watched the waves roll over our feet, and squealed when they rolled up a little higher and more enthusiastically than we expected. But it's hardly a legitimate day at the seaside if you don't get your trousers wet. :)

     It almost feels like I can fly when stand on the shore with the wind whipping past my face, throwing my hair about my head! (It also makes for an interesting hairstyle afterwards.) To top it all off, the shallow waves were almost warm! In the midst of this delightful excursion we decided we were hungry, so we adjourned to the cafe (remember, no English public place or building is without one) for burgers and chips, and to watch our fellow beach-goers enjoying the prescribed ice cream.

A perfect day at West Wittering Beach.

Happy memories!

Smiling like fool in the wind... But a happy one!

This is why I usually face the wind.

Some of the greenest green and bluest blue of surrounding scenery.

     I could hardly keep from smiling involuntarily all the while we were on the beach, with its sparkling sea, the clear blue sky, and the beaming sun. For anyone who has read the completed version of Jane Austen's Sanditon, I could completely understand why Clara Brereton was dancing about in the sea during her bathing excursion with Charlotte Heywood, as the sheer beauty of the day made me feel like doing so myself. Thankfully, there was no Mrs. Gunn to reprimand me. :)

© Anna Morton 2017

From Winchester to Steventon

| The bright and beautiful place where Jane Austen grew up: Steventon |

England 2015 Trip Journal
Saturday, April 11

     Going from Winchester to Steventon feels like seeing Jane Austen's entire life in a single day. I've always had what amounted to almost a fear of going to Winchester, where Jane died. In my mind it only has sad associations with her life, so I never thought I could really face seeing her grave or the place where she spent the last moments of this life. But, although it was sad, it was a reminder that the real Jane, her spirit, is not buried under Winchester Cathedral – so seeing her grave actually became a comfort. The elegant gold plaque on the wall was added in 1870 by her nephew and biographer James Edward Austen-Leigh, and the stained glass window in 1900 by public subscription. But the actual marker given to her at her death in 1817 is much simpler, and lies in the floor below the other two. It was composed by her brother Henry, and reads:

In memory of

JANE AUSTEN,

youngest daughter of the late

Revd GEORGE AUSTEN

formerly Rector of Steventon in this County.

She departed from this Life on the 18th of July, 1817,

aged 41, after a long illness supported with

the patience and the hope of a Christian.

The benevolence of her heart,

the sweetness of her temper, and

the extraordinary endowments of her mind

obtained the regard of all who knew her, and

the warmest love of her intimate connections.

Their grief is in proportion to their affection

they know their loss to be irreparable

but in their deepest affliction they are consoled

by a firm though humble hope that her charity,

devotion, faith and purity have rendered

her soul acceptable in the sight of her

REDEEMER

The window and plaque to mark where Jane was buried.

Remembering our Jane.

      The cathedral itself was magnificent! As well it might be, since Winchester was the capital of the Anglo Saxon kingdom of Wessex, and home to Alfred the Great – who is presented quite majestically in statue form near the Eastgate/Broadway roundabout, one of the busiest intersections of the city. The admission was quite reasonable at £8 for each of us. It includes a guided tour, or you can get an audio tour for £3 extra, but we decided to go it on our own. There are traces of the Old Minster on the lawn outside, but the current structure was built by William the Conqueror after his invasion in 1066. I don't think I will ever outlive the wonder of those soaring ceilings that end in the iconic fan vaulting that you have to crane your neck to see – they literally lift your eyes to heaven and remind you of the unearthly glory of God! If the architects were going for that effect, they certainly achieved it.

Approaching Winchester Cathedral on the sunniest of spring days!
(From the Colebrook Street car park.)

 

A chorus of Handel's Messiah wouldn't go amiss right now...

     Besides seeing Jane's grave, there were many unexpected surprises tucked away inside the cathedral. The choir stalls were magnificent, but the most exciting discovery was the stone coffin of King Canute seemingly tucked away behind it. I think my jaw dropped. To see the spot where that infamous Danish invader was actually buried in 1035 – 1035, mind you – was unreal. Seriously unreal.

(Alas, I somehow managed to take zero pictures of this exciting sight.)

Just standing in some 14th century choir stalls. No big deal...

More of those head-tilting fan vaults.

It's a sunny day in England, therefore
I must eat ice cream.

     When you're done with a bit of sightseeing the next thing to do is to look for the nearest place serving tea – which is almost always right on the premises when you're in England – so we walked over to the Cathedral Refectory. The prices were reasonable, so we grabbed a sausage roll, but to me the most obvious choice on the menu had to be the Hampshire ice cream. It seems to be almost obligatory in England on a sunny day. Practically everyone you see is enjoying ice cream when the sun comes out, as if in celebration, and I wholeheartedly admit to being in favor of this trend. I had to try something especially British, so I chose the blackcurrant flavor, and Mom chose the fail-proof of all flavors: chocolate. It was quite cheering to sit in that bright room filled with people enjoying cakes and tea, salads and sausage rolls. A cafe on the premises of any attraction seems to have become a British institution, and hardly any experience feels more British than that of sitting in one.


     We then made our way around to the other side of the Cathedral, past some Tudor houses and a medieval looking wall, took a left on Dome Alley, another left onto Kingsgate, and one more left onto College Street. Seeing #8 College Street, where Jane was staying during her illness, was also surprisingly calming rather than depressing. It is neither a deserted nor a busy place, just a quiet street with a steady stream of pedestrians walking past the blossoming trees and the pale yellow house. I still could not help tearing up for a moment thinking of how much Cassandra must have felt she had lost – "...the gilder of every pleasure" is how she described Jane. But it is comforting to actually see the place and to know that it is a pleasant one.

Jane's last home.

The peaceful park that Jane could have seen out of her windows.

Looking the other way down College Street.

     There were quite a few stalls set up on High Street, the historic, pedestrian-only street that now merges into Broadway, so we took a few minutes to browse. We can't resist a bit of food and shopping! Mom was able to find the crepe stand, of course, and kindly shared her delicious discovery with me. The Tourist Information center is also on the High Street, and it is always a good idea to pop inside these places because they will have information (that's their job, right?) on things to do and how to get around.  

Crepes!

     It was getting on in the afternoon, which meant it was time to head to our next destination. We parked in the Colebrook Street Car Park, just off of Broadway and across the street from the Cathedral, so we didn't have to rush back (and we'd paid for four hours). Then we whisked ourselves off to Steventon and Jane's beginning!

     Steventon is just under half an hour north of Winchester, and, using our satnav (a.k.a. GPS), we found it easily. We have now walked and have now driven to get to Steventon from the main road, and I definitely prefer driving. The only place to park is at the church, so we started there.

     As during our first visit, the entire area was deserted, making it perfectly peaceful. Everything was the brightest, freshest green! The grass was practically glowing in the Spring sunshine, and the air was crisp and clear from the chilly wind, making every view brilliantly clear.

St. Nicholas Church in Steventon – a place Jane knew and loved.

The 1,000 year-old yew tree outside of St. Nicholas.

Where the Austen family gathered every Sunday for the first 25 years of Jane Austen's life.

     We were able to find a couple of gaps in the hedges to get good shots of where the house had been. I walked down the hill while Mom drove down slowly to avoid being cold. :) I get such a sense of a youthful, happy, lively existence when I'm in Steventon as I imagine Jane and Cassandara traipsing about the country to visit friends and go to balls, walking and giggling arm in arm.

Where the rectory, the home of the Austen family, once stood.

This is a more precise look at where the house would have stood.
The lime tree was planted by Jane's brother James before the Rectory was demolished.

The happiest of times!

     On the way back to our own little cottage in Alresford we tried to find Manydown, the home of Jane's friends Alethea, Elizabeth and Catherine Bigg, on a little side road with a farm of that name. We couldn't locate the house, but I remembered that The Vyne was also nearby (the house and estate belonging to friends of Jane's brother James). I tried putting The Vyne in our satnav search, and, lo and behold, it was there, and only 4.4 miles away! As we drove down the road toward the house I could just put myself back into 1793 or so and see Jane and Cassandra in a coach coming to one of the balls held there. I was wishing so much I could have gone with them! It was nearly 5:00 so the estate was about to close, of course, but we could see the front of the house from the road, and I was able to stick my camera lens through the gate to get a perfect shot.

     Instead of touring The Vyne, we came home to our little cottage in the little English village to eat our delicious dinner of curried chicken and veg. Alresford is such an English village: tidy, old, picturesque, and a community. It's lovely. Even our cottage couldn't be more English! Situated just off of the high street with it's perfectly quaint brick exterior, it comprises the middle and upper floors, and is a beautiful, creaky, timbered place filled with charming touches like old rugs and landscape paintings. And a tea kettle (which is perhaps the most important and English touch of all).
 

© 2017 Anna Morton