Doughnuts make a nice silver lining in London...

| And we enjoyed a lovely cloudless day on Primrose Hill. |

2015 England Travel Journal Entry
Friday, March 20

(10:51 AM) Despite the fact that we have to go off for a few hours to pick up some undelivered mail, which at first glance appears to be an unpleasant interruption to our plans, I can already see at least one silver lining – then who knows what's coming!

It was a very pleasant thing to catch our train at Herne Hill Station because just around the corner is a gem of a bakery called 'Ye Olde Bakery.' There is no seating and it is a bit cramped, but when we left it was packed with apparent regulars on their way to work. We could see a gentleman rolling dough in the kitchen, and I glimpsed a photo on the wall of what looked like a younger version of him. I think he's been here a long time. We decided on a croissant (chocolate, of course) and an enormous jelly doughnut; with some coffee to top it off (and to warm us up... it is so chilly outside). These items came to a grand total of £2.60, which means it was a total win because they were not only delicious, but cheap!

Enjoying our silver lining. :)

It is such a lovely feeling to run around a train station with freshly bought pastries and a cup of hot coffee early on a cold morning, and, on top of it all, to actually know what you're doing. :)

(12:11 PM) So, it turns out that our mail is not in the place we spent all morning trying to find, but at the Brixton Post Office. Oh, well, at least we know... Our train is due at 16 past. At least the wind isn't blowing in my face too much anymore and making it numb.

(7:49 PM) We are currently relaxing in our beloved St Pancras Station. We took the load off of our weary feet by buying a caramel cappucino in Costa, which gave us permission to sit down inside. We have enjoyed our sandwiches and coleslaw, and especially our eclairs, all courtesy of the Marks & Spencer in the station, just opposite us.

Costa: One of our favorite places to rest our feet.

So, we at last found our mail! And it was only up the street a couple of blocks away from our flat... We could have walked there. But at least we got the doughnut and I found a skirt at Oxfam by Herne Hill Station. :)

We then got on at Oval Station, since from there the Tube goes straight to Primrose Hill on the Northern Line. It's a 5-10 minute walk to the hill from the station, but at last the sun was shining, warming up the hitherto very chilly London. It's a short hill on the back side, so the magnificent view  suddenly appears before you!

It was unlike anything – it was London.

A sunny view of London from Primrose Hill in Regent's Park.

The eastern side of London from Primrose Hill.

The southwestern view of London, with the Eye and the Houses of Parliament (somewhere).

We had a lovely time snacking, and evesdropping on our fellow viewers.

There was a large plaque with the skyline etched in and the landmarks marked out. But Mom very sagaciously pointed out that every time something new is built that adds to the skyline a new plaque would have to be made. Lots of people were just relaxing on the grass, locals and tourists alike, and I was listening to the two guys next to us who were just chatting about the various buildings, calling one "the cheese grater," while wondering what was taking their friend so long to arrive (which he did at last, I'm happy to report).

We walked through the park to Camden Town Station, also passing through some ice cream colored homes in Camden. While walking, the (50th) instance of my tripping on the sidewalk occurred. Only this time there was a dad with his son walking toward us, and he made a sympathetic groan. Mom afterwards thought she heard him say, "Have a nice trip!" (Oh, the puns...)

Walking (and tripping) in Camden.

One of the lovely Spring scenes in Camden.

Whole Foods is on Parkway in Camden, if we ever need to know. And we will also want to in future avoid Camden Town Station – it was packed with loud young people – but we did manage to find a quiet car at the end of the train.

Getting off at St. Pancras was so exciting! It's quite a pleasant station, despite being hugely large and busy. We zipped over to the British Library, and were relieved to see that it closes at 6:00 and not 5:00, as it was just 5:00 when we arrived (except on Saturdays it does close at 5:00). We decided against the Magna Carta exhibit since it was £12 each and we've already seen the original. We shopped a bit in their lovely shop and actually bought a few things. I couldn't resist the Magna Carta memorabilia! An 800th anniversary isn't something one sees every day.

The lobby of the world's most amazing library.

I can never get over the fact that I'm looking at Jane Austen's writing desk. I feel like I'm looking through time. That makes her seem more real and visible than ever. My other favorites this time were the Spem in alium (the ambitious and unique choral arrangement from the 1500s with 40 parts), Thomas Wyatt's poems from 1537-42 and Jane Eyre. This time the Tyndale Bible was open to Acts 1 and the Greek manuscript Codex Sinalticus was open to Isaiah 59-62. Just as Matthew 7 was encouraging back on our 2013 trip, Acts was exhorting this time, and reminded me of the most important reason of why I'm in England – or why I'm even alive – it is so God can share the message of Christ through me. It's amazing how the words translated by Tyndale 500 years ago are just as powerful today as they were then!

We wanted to eat and rest our weary legs, but it was nearing dark, and North Gower Street – also known as Baker Street on Sherlock – was only a few blocks away. So we bit the bullet and trekked over there. And it was all there, just as we expected! But it was still a surprise to actually see it. There is no 221B on the door, I'm afraid, but it is black and the door knocker is there, as well as Speedy's Cafe. :) It was rather daunting to see a guy sitting at the first floor window, but Mom, who was more brave than I and looked up, said he merely seemed amused. I suppose he's used to it.

"It's Sherlock Holmes, of 221B Baker Street."

Unfortunately, neither of them came out...

There's the actual resident of "221B"

(10:33 PM) Walking up to the gate that belongs to our flat these last few days has really started to feel like I'm coming home. It would really feel like home if we could connect regularly with people – like a church or a branch of the Jane Austen Society. :) If I ever get a chance to stay in London for a long period of time I will endeavor to find ways to connect.

Mom and I nearly had an attack of the giggles on the Tube ride home while reading the Evening Standard article about politicians' clothing styles. It was the comment about George Osborne's rising hemlines illustrating rising markets that really did it. (He is the Chancellor of the Exchequer.) The whole article had an unmistakable undercurrent of irony and teasing – so perfectly English. But that is dangerous when you mix it with exhaustion and caffeine on a quiet Tube car...


© 2015 Anna Morton

Britannia Rule the Waves: A day in Greenwich

 The Old Royal Naval College at Greenwich, built in the 1690s by King William and Queen Mary.

2015 England Trip Travel Journal Entry

Wednesday, March 18

Today was all Greenwich. The Royal Naval College and buildings by Christopher Wren were exciting to see – and they were just as impressive as I imagined them to be! They were built to be a sort of convalescent complex for sailors retired from the Royal Navy in the late 1600s. It is a spectacular example of neoclassical architecture.

Walking up to the college.

Another chilly day, but the spectacular architecture was completely worth it!

Walking through the college complex.

It's a pity that the Tudor palace that had originally been there was torn down, but there was a replica of it in the introductory exhibition and it probably looked much like Hampton Court or St. James's Palace. They had actually found floor tiles from it's chapel! A very nice and friendly staff member was telling us all about it. Lee was his name.

A replica of Henry VIII's visor. It was impossible to resist.

The replica of Henry VIII's Greenwich Palace.

A painting of 17th century London.

We got to go inside of the Chapel of St Peter and St Paul. The original had burnt down in the late 18th century, but the current one was immediately rebuilt in a similar style by James 'Athenian' Stuart and William Newton. The painting above the front was a depiction of Paul's shipwreck in the book of Acts by Benjamin West. The whole room was glorious! The ceiling was so intricate that it was literally jaw-dropping. (I know because my jaw literally dropped.)
 

The Chapel of St Peter and St Paul with Benjamin West's painting.

The back of the Chapel room.

Descending the steps from the Chapel.

The Queen's House and the Painted Hall were both closed for events – of course that would happen the day we were there. The latter I knew about before coming, but the former took me totally by surprise. That was so disappointing! But one must move on from such disappointments...

The Queen's House, designed by Inigo Jones for Queen Anne in the early 1600s.
It is a textbook example of a perfectly designed neoclassical building.

Walking along a portico to The Queen's House. It was the closest that we could get.

Looking at the Naval College from The Queen's House.

The Maritime Museum was next door, and it actually contained Admiral Nelson's Trafalgar uniform... Boy, did that bring history close!

The Maritime Museum

The uniform of Admiral Horatio Nelson worn at the Battle of Trafalgar.

18th century uniforms for a Captain, a First Lieutenant and a Second Lieutenant (I think).

An 18th century Midshipman's uniform.

But we had to run out of there to reach the observatory, and I nearly expired having to climb that hill so fast... My poor heart! And we still didn't get to stand on the Meridian because we didn't know where it was. But at least the view of the buildings below was nice. And we could at least see the Meridian through the gate. :)

The Greenwich Meridian!

A view of The Queen's Palace from the Greenwich Observatory.

We glimpsed Goddard's Pie Shop as wandered around, which was recommended on Trip Advisor, so we tried it. It was too delicious!! We each got a pie: a steak and ale and a chicken and ham, both with potatoes and mushy peas, then split a blackcurrent and apple crumble with custard.

English food at it's very finest and most delicious!

It ain't too pretty, but those kinds usually taste the best.

It was such a local place, and family owned since 1890. There were families having dinner or picking up dinner to bring home. The lady behind the counter called everyone 'my love,' and the owner bade goodbye by saying, 'Cheerio, ladies!' Then as we made our way home Mom said what we were both thinking: 'They actually say that!' :)

The comfortable inside of Goddard's Pie Shop.

A typical evening on the Tube while we make our way home.

In the Tower of London

There is so much palace that it takes rather a lot of hours to see it all – and enjoy it all!

2015 England Trip Travel Journal Entry

Wednesday, March 18

We spent most of the day at the Tower of London. That was a well-spent day! After eating lunch on the river with the sun shining and the Tower behind us, surrounded by dozens of school groups and scores of tourists, we began our Yeoman Warder tour.

Walking along the walls of the Tower, enjoying a view of the Tower Bridge.

We got to go inside of the chapel this time, and the White Tower. That was special because much of the structure is what was actually built by William the Conqueror. Just to touch the stones put there by that dynamic and powerful man, who had walked those halls and been used to make decisions that would alter history, was unreal.

The White Tower
It is pretty magnificent!

One of the upper floors in the White Tower.

We also got up on the wall and into the Wakefield and Bloody Towers. The Wakefield Tower took me quite by surprise. We walked unexpectedly into a room that was set up like the court of Henry III, who had built this part of the palace in the 1200s. That was fascinating! I didn't know it was even there! There was a throne room and a bedroom, completely fitted up as they would have been during Henry's reign.

The throne room of Henry III.

The chapel of the Wakefield Tower where Henry VI may have been murdered...

The bedroom of Henry III in the Wakefield Tower.

The Bloody Tower was also fitted up. There was one room that was particularly comfortable. It was where Sir Walter Raleigh had been held prisoner, with a fancy tile floor, desks, chairs, and lots of other hospitable furnishings. The room where the "Princes in the Tower" were supposedly kept was up a flight of the narrowest, steepest, most tightly would stairs, ever. It was a fairly spacious room, but there was something distinctly uncomfortable about it, knowing what might have been its history... It probably didn't help that there was a short animated film about the princes' fate at the hands of their infamous uncle Richard projected onto the wall.

One of the most exciting parts of our visit was the display of royal armor in the White Tower - I have never seen so much armor all together! (Unless you count watching 'The Hollow Crown''s 'Henry V' film...) There were about five suits of armor worn by Henry VIII. Some gave his ownership away by their size alone... My favorite of his was one with the initials of himself and his first wife Katherine stamped all along the border of the "skirt."

Some of Henry VIII's armor.

Notice the "HK" along the armor's edge... Isn't it romantic?

More armor of Henry VIII

The armor of Charles I was a work of art (unsurprisingly, knowing his taste for showing off the king's divine right through ostentatious display). It was etched with intricate patterns that covered the entire suit.

Charles I's armor.

We also saw a sword that was said to have been carried by Henry IV and Henry V during their coronations! (Of course, to me that translates to Jeremy Irons and Tom Hiddleston...) It must have been seven feet long, at least.

The sword of Henry IV and V.

We saw swords belonging to George III and George IV, the Tower uniform of the Duke of Wellington when he was in charge of the palace, and some original coins ranging from the reign of William the Conqueror to George IV!

The swords of George II, George III and George IV.

Wellington's coat

A coin from the time of William the Conqueror.

We saw the Crown Jewels, too. Wow... Those diamonds must be where the definition of "dazzling" comes from! There is a brilliant projection during one part of the exhibit that sort of animates drawings of coronations through the centuries, making it feel like you're watching a televised version of Charles II's or George IV's coronation processions! The robe that has been worn by the monarch since (I think) George IV is quite a fascinating object. It is gold and covered in roses, shamrocks and thistles - which represent England, Northern Ireland, and Scotland, respectively. (I'm not sure where Wales fits in, there...)

One place that is sort of tucked away is the room where Lady Jane Grey was imprisoned. She may have carved her name into the stone wall on the upper story! And she wasn't the only one who did... There are hundreds of names and messages carved into that wall! There is a guide posted on the wall that tells you where some of the more interesting signatures are located. I would recommend trying to see that room.

Of course, our day at the Tower was not all about history, executions and imprisonment, nor was it without it's comic moments. The first occurred on our way out of the Crown Jewels exhibit, and involved two young soldiers returning with some tea. We were sort of trying to watch and admire them without looking like we were, when suddenly one of them tripped, and, as Mom kept the camera rolling, sheepishly said, "I hope nobody saw that!" Well...

We also saw a raven up close! Those things are almost prehistorically sized, they are so big. But there is also something suitably royal about their being so large. :)

Our encounter with a Raven.

We then had dinner and dessert at - where else! - The Kitchen @Tower! It was quite delicious.

Our toffee cake and tea.

© 2015 Anna Morton